On Saturday 8th August at 3.44pm I reached the finish line of the Pennine Way, having walked 264 miles from Edale over 17 days!
It was such an incredible experience (not all of it positive!) that it has taken me a few weeks to know how to write about it, but I thought I’d make start by copying over the posts that I shared each day in the PW Facebook group which was such a brilliant support before and during my hike. I think that these posts give a real-time perspective which will be lost if I try to recap now.
I also wrote a haiku every day, so I’ll include them here too!! Here’s the first one about leaving home:
Setting off –
Leaving for Edale
To walk on the Pennine Way
I may be a while…
Day 1 – Edale to Crowden
I remember this being a tough day four years ago & it hasn’t really changed! I gave myself a head start by walking to Upper Booth on travel day and camping there for the first night. I used that ‘saved’ mile to visit Higher Shelf Stones to see the aircraft memorial crash site, which was very moving.
Haiku:
Up Jacob’s Ladder
Endless stone path to Snake Pass
All day in the wild
On to Standedge…
Day 2 – Crowden to Standedge
Haiku –
Walking on the tops
Of vast open moors all day
Blissful solitude
I had trouble posting on FB on day 2 so wrote a brief synopsis – loved today, lots of moorland hours without seeing another soul, sadly the fire at Wessenden Head hadn’t closed the nasty path! I need to get better at eating on the trail – can’t live on jellyfish babies (a great autocorrect from FB – it was meant to say jelly tots!!) and shortbread…
Day 3 – Standedge to Jack Bridge
Nicky’s cafe rocks!
Reservoirs all afternoon
Wild winds all day long 
Oof the wild windy weather kicked off as soon as I set off from ex Carriage House camping – and stayed with me all day! It was gusting fairly constantly at 35mph, knocking me over a couple of times – but I guess it’s great training for later on the trail?!
Nicky’s cafe is such a brilliant place – so lovely to eat real food and drink tea from a proper mug 
I bought a vegan sausage roll and chips to eat there, and another without chips to carry with me all day for an easy campsite dinner. Also several bags of crisps and a mars bar. Happy days!!!
After a long break at Nicky’s I felt like I was chasing my tail all day but I tried not to worry about timing and accept that it would take as long as it took to get to my campsite. It turned into a 10 hour day but it also reminded me one of my favourite things about trail walking – all you have to think about is where you’re going, how to get there and where you’ll get food, drink & shelter, and nothing else matters. How lucky that we get to do this 
On to Ickornshaw tomorrow – haven’t checked the weather yet, I’ll save it for the morning.
Day 4 – Jack Bridge to Ickornshaw
Today’s haiku –
Wind & rain today
True Wuthering Heights weather
Apt for Kate Bush day! 
Really enjoyed today – I love the open moorland sections with all the wind and withering, and there wasn’t much rain so that was a bonus.
Very cool to see two Cathy’s from Haworth walking up to Top Withens 
Finally found some trail buddies today 
On to Malham…
Day 5: Ickornshaw to Malham
This felt like a longer slog than I remembered & I bought too much food in the co-op so my pack was heavy for the last few miles!
Haiku –
Up Pinhaw Beacon
Over the hills to Gargrave
And on to Malham
Day 6: Malham to Ling Gill Bridge (wild camp)
The very best kind of hiking day – beautiful places & beautiful people all day long. Will add more detail when I’m not sat on a windy hill!
Haiku –
I wrote the first one whilst walking around Malham Tarn, wondering why it smelled funny!!
Walking, with wet socks
On the outside of my pack.
The air smells pungent!!
This one came later in the day!
Wow wow wow wow wow
Best day of hiking ever
Pen y Ghent conquered
Onwards to Thwaite!
Day 7: Ling Gill Bridge to Thwaite
Haiku –
Hawes, Hardraw & Thwaite
Great Shunner Fell after lunch
Eighteen miles today
This day is easily summarised – long steady climb before dropping down to Hawes followed by a long steady climb before dropping down to Thwaite – but that makes it sound much less interesting than it was.
The views of the surrounding hills were great – loved seeing Pen y Ghent on the horizon – surprised it was so far away given that I was there the day before!!
Great Shunner Fell is a big old lump of rock! Kudos to anyone here that went over before the flagstones were laid 
It’s the first wet bog I’ve seen since I started. It was also pretty cold at the top so I was glad to head down and enjoy the views of distant Thwaite bathed in sunshine. It is very pretty here – looking forward to walking through it when I get going this morning.
Planning another longish day today but I’m feeling tired so might shorten it – I’ll see how I go…
Day 8: Thwaite to Clove Lodge
Haiku –
Four low-flying jets
Walked up to the highest pub
Sleighthome Moor is dry!
I was late getting started today and the walk from Thwaite to Keld took much longer than expected but the views at either end were so good. Made quick progress up to Tan Hill & then decided I would push on to Clove Lodge instead of finding somewhere to stop sooner. Best decision ever!
Clove Lodge is such a gem and Claire could not be kinder. I’ll write a separate post later about some truly wonderful people I’ve met on this hike, but suffice it to say I am very grateful for a safe space to sleep & a well-stocked snack barn 
Excited to pass half way today – can’t believe how fast the time is going – don’t want it to stop.
Feeling very grateful to be walking in such dry conditions – Sleightholme Moor was easy walking today but I can see that is not always the case!
Also excited to see four jets screaming through the valley above Thwaite this morning – very low & very loud.
Day 9: Clove Lodge to Langdon Beck
I totally crashed today 
Lack of quality sleep finally caught up with me and I had a real down day, which is probably inevitable at some point?! I was due to camp in the hotel grounds but upgraded to a room! Arrived just before 7pm, showered & washed my clothes, and was asleep by 8pm! No dinner but I’ll make up for it at breakfast…
‘Highlights’ of the day –
1) a whole bottle of insect repellent spilling into a pocket of my pack 
The smell was gross even after cleaning up the worst of it AND it didn’t keep the midges away at all 
2) there was a tuck shop on route that I was excited to reach – but it was empty! 
Who promises a hikers tuck shop and then lets it get empty?!?!
3) actual rain for the first time on the way into Middleton-in-Teesdale.
I must have looked like I needed support because someone in a group of walkers gave me a blessing, which was very kind. They also told me where I’d find chips which was much appreciated.
This afternoon was not my kind of walking & weirdly didn’t feel like the Pennine Way at all because it was more of a tourist trail. The waterfalls were pretty but I’d have liked them closer together with less river in between!!
So that’s everything about day 9 – summarised into a choice of haiku:
The how-I-felt version –
A blessing brought tears
Didn’t want to walk today
This is my down day
And the less emotional version –
An empty tuck shop
Two beautiful waterfalls
A long river walk
Tomorrow is my most anticipated section of the trail…hope I feel better than today so I can fully enjoy it
Onwards!
Day 10: Langdon Beck to Dufton
Haiku –
Ten hours sleep – pure bliss
High Cup Nick, a dream come true;
To Dufton to rest!
Wow – amazing how different I feel after sleeping for 10 hours, eating a cooked breakfast and four slices of toast and jam, and stopping every hour to drink some rehydration/energy salts.
Also I cheated by walking direct to Cow Green Reservoir by road – couldn’t face any more river walking!!
I have wanted to see High Cup Nick for years and he did not disappoint. I got really emotional thinking about how many people never get the chance to live out their dreams, and how grateful that I got to live out one of mine today.
Arrived in Dufton before 5pm, pitched up, helped another hiker who was feeling poorly, showered & headed to The Stag for the most incredible meal – I decided not to be vegetarian today – need protein!
Thank you all for support yesterday – I was feeling very broken and cannot believe how much better I feel today. If I sleep well tonight I’ll push on tomorrow; if not I’ll take a rest day…
Day 11: Dufton to Garrigill
Haiku –
All day ascending
Cross Fell wasn’t cross at all
Endless winding road
My (revised) plan today was to rest up in Dufton – cup of tea in the Post Box Pantry, Sunday roast in The Stag, an afternoon nap, a bit of journaling about my trip…it would have been so nice BUT then I saw the weather forecast for Cross Fell today Wind speed 3-7mph (maximum gusts 13mph!) and it was too enticing to get up and over while it was that good.
I am feeling truly blessed with the weather! If I’d known it would be this good I could have left two coats at home!!
So I had 6 hours going (mostly) uphill – loved the views (good to see Cow Green reservoir from yesterday) and nearly 4 hours coming back down – that last 3 of which were spent on the endless road…I have read other theories but I think it is called the Corpse Road because most people walking on this road die of boredom on the way to Garrigill!!!
Not only was the road long but the midges were persistent – midge net on for the first time in my life…
Onwards tomorrow!
Day 12: Garrigill to Greenriggs campsite
Haiku –
Stocked up in Alston
Slept at Slaggyford station!
Galloped to Greenriggs
A much needed shorter and easy day today, made even shorter and easier by my unplanned decision to walk on the South Tyne Trail from Alston to Slaggyford. It wasn’t very interesting but it was like sleep-walking – my body knew what to do but my brain didn’t have to be involved at all.
I was hoping for a cuppa at Slaggyford station but nothing was open. I sat on a bench, thinking about getting my stove out to make tea, but then realised I needed a snooze instead!! For 20 peaceful minutes I lay on the bench, shoes off, pack under my legs, chest pack under my head & it was bliss 
Revived after some food, I headed back to the actual PW and yomped to the campsite, meeting Kai along the way who decided to camp here too. Jill, the owner, is the nicest lady ever – made me a cup of tea on arrival and fetched me a chair. Shower was really hot. Beautiful campsite if anyone is looking in this area.
Day 13: Greenriggs Cottage to Winshields
Haiku –
Early rain soon stopped
Hadrian’s Wall was hilly
Twice Brewed for dinner
I thought I was going to lose my good weather charm this morning…woke to the sound of pouring rain but a quick check on the weather showed it would be gone by 9am so I hung out in my tent, ate breakfast & starting packing things away while I waited. By 8.45am it was gone and it stayed away all day!!!
Greenriggs Cottage campsite was such a gem – the owner made me a fantastic packed lunch and even brought a cup of tea over to my tent this morning!! Highly recommend.
Even though the rain had stopped, my feet got soaked in all the wet grass over Blenkinsopp Common but luckily there was no noticeable wet bog – second win of the day!
I have to admit I wasn’t looking forward to Hadrian’s Wall, having been told and read how busy it is. I thought it would feel like a tourist trail, so I took my time having lunch at Greenhead Tearooms before heading up to the wall. It totally surpassed all expectations!! Not busy, not touristy, just very impressive. In spite of having tired little legs, I even loved all the hills! I kept going to the trig pillar at Winshields Crag before dropping down to my campsite for the night.
What a gift of a day on the Way. So grateful to be doing this – can’t believe I only have 4 more days…
PS is it possible I could see the sea, looking west from Winshields Crag trig pillar???
Day 14: Winshields to Bellingham
Haiku –
Farewell to the wall
A bit squally at lunchtime!
Arrived Belling-jam
I was so sad the leave the wall today that I took no notice of the way marker & barrelled straight ahead down the obvious path 
I realised when I reached the stony outcrop, turned right, navigated my way around two cows only to find they had left their babies hiding in a hollow on the path, so I had to give them a wide berth.
Hadrian’s Wall really stirred something in me – I’d never want to do the whole route but seeing the undulating line of it and all the crags, going into the distance is remarkable. Loved it!
Had some proper squally weather today – the big coat had to come out for the first time. I tucked myself into a sheepfold for lunch, half way across Haughton Common, to avoid the worst of the sideways rain for a while.
I was glad when I realised that Horneystead Pit Stop was getting near. Had a really lovely chat with Mr Horneystead who was there when I arrived. I took off my wet socks, made a cuppa & sat with my feet drying for a while. Bliss! Mr H suggested a different campsite to the one I planned to use tonight, so I took his advice and bought food from the co-op on the way. This vegetarian just wolfed down half a chicken!!! I’ll be running all the way to Byrness tomorrow! (spoiler alert – I didn’t actuallyrun!!
Day 15: Bellingham to (almost) Byrness
Haiku –
Quick shop at co-op
A moorland & forest day
Don’t want this to end
For the first time today I thought about this adventure being nearly over & it brought up lots of emotions, many of which I’m sure are familiar to others who have walked the PW too.
I’m really happy with how I’ve managed everything. I’m so proud of my little old legs for getting me here. I’m excited for the last two days (I’m splitting it so that I can savour every moment). I’m grateful for the support I’ve had on my JustGiving page raising money for Cancer Research UK in memory of a friend. I don’t want it to end. I can’t wait to get home and exfoliate my legs. I don’t want to go home at all. I’m grateful I have a home to go back to…
It’s a lot, isn’t it?!
I’ve also been thinking about how to describe the experience to people who may ask, and I’ve come to the conclusion that long distance hiking is a lot like life – good bits, ugly bits, laughter, tears, challenging stuff, fun times, days when you don’t want to get out bed, days that you feel invincible, times when you don’t know where you’re going, the joy of meeting people along the way – and all of it made possible by putting one foot in front of the other, over & over again.
How lucky I feel to have had the luxury of time to take this journey. I will try to remember that when I feel sad that it’s over!
But it’s not over yet!!
Today was my speediest walking so far. Walked into my campsite (just short of Byrness) at 16.08 having set off at a slightly tardy 09.30! I think the forest trail had me walking quicker than usual – my feet definitely feel like that’s what happened anyway. Today was really a day of two parts – lovely moorland, followed by the hideous climb up to the forest path 
and the forest itself. Wet vegetation for the last stretch was an added bonus!!
I did gain some trail buddies today though & we’ll all be finishing on Saturday so that’s really cool…
Onwards!
Day 16: Byrness to somewhere in the hills!
Haiku –
Climb up Byrness Hill
Amazing day in the hills
Find somewhere to sleep
Wow! What a day!! I love being in the hills and today delivered plenty of them! The initial climb was tough near the top but once you’re in the sky it’s soon forgotten.
This was my favourite kind of hiking – up high all day, big views, rolling landscape, a few cairns & trig pillars & the silly joy of crossing the border via a gate!
Just before Chew Green I was thinking that it felt like I was inside the landscape, and that it would be impossible to see this area without walking into it…and then I saw the road & noticed a parking area on the map But aside from that, it feels like such a special place, which is earned by the journey taken to get there.
For anyone behind me, there was a trickle of water at Richard’s cleugh – bit of a balancing act but I collected a litre on my way through. I filtered, micropur-ed and boiled it so hopefully I’ll live to tell the tale…
So there’s no sadness today – just real joy about a fantastic day. My feet are sore now – no blisters but they feel like they’ve worked hard these past few days! It’s going to be a cold night up here but I’m snuggled up in my sleeping bag and hopefully the sound of the wind will lull me to sleep.
One more day!
Day 17: somewhere in the hills to Kirk Yetholm
Haiku –
Woke up in the hills
Walked the Cheviot & Schil
Then a long descent
Wow! The final section is so lovely – hard walking in places but stunning rolling hills I was amazed to see the sea from the Cheviot turn off! Didn’t expect that at all. The final way marker ‘KY 2 miles’ nearly broke me – thought I was nearer! And the uphill road at the end!!!
Reached the end without any emotional over-spill, then sat in the hotel with a pot of tea and couldn’t stop the tears!! I gave the beer away to a group in the bar & a lady came over to thank me. She knew I’d completed the PW but didn’t realise it had just happened and couldn’t understand why I was emotional. Then she saw the certificate and asked why I had it…’I just finished the Pennine Way!’ – ‘oh, like JUST finished?’ #doh
While I was walking, I carried a heart-shaped pebble from my nearest beach in East Sussex, and today I left it on an outside windowsill at the Border Hotel. A token for my grand-daughters (from whom I am sadly estranged), but who I carry with me wherever I go…
Summary haiku:
Thank you Pennine Way
The people, the path, the views.
What an adventure!
A final haiku:
Waiting for my train
Heading home with heavy heart
Sad to leave the trail
What a beautiful journey this has been. I’m sure it won’t be my last…
