Category: walking

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My Pennine Way journey

On Saturday 8th August at 3.44pm I reached the finish line of the Pennine Way, having walked 264 miles from Edale over 17 days!

It was such an incredible experience (not all of it positive!) that it has taken me a few weeks to know how to write about it, but I thought I’d make start by copying over the posts that I shared each day in the PW Facebook group which was such a brilliant support before and during my hike. I think that these posts give a real-time perspective which will be lost if I try to recap now.

I also wrote a haiku every day, so I’ll include them here too!! Here’s the first one about leaving home:

Setting off –

Leaving for Edale
To walk on the Pennine Way
I may be a while…

Day 1 – Edale to Crowden

I remember this being a tough day four years ago & it hasn’t really changed! I gave myself a head start by walking to Upper Booth on travel day and camping there for the first night. I used that ‘saved’ mile to visit Higher Shelf Stones to see the aircraft memorial crash site, which was very moving.

Haiku:

Up Jacob’s Ladder
Endless stone path to Snake Pass
All day in the wild

On to Standedge…

Day 2 – Crowden to Standedge

Haiku –

Walking on the tops
Of vast open moors all day
Blissful solitude

I had trouble posting on FB on day 2 so wrote a brief synopsis – loved today, lots of moorland hours without seeing another soul, sadly the fire at Wessenden Head hadn’t closed the nasty path! I need to get better at eating on the trail – can’t live on jellyfish babies (a great autocorrect from FB – it was meant to say jelly tots!!) and shortbread…

Day 3 – Standedge to Jack Bridge

Nicky’s cafe rocks!
Reservoirs all afternoon
Wild winds all day long 💨💨💨

Oof the wild windy weather kicked off as soon as I set off from ex Carriage House camping – and stayed with me all day! It was gusting fairly constantly at 35mph, knocking me over a couple of times – but I guess it’s great training for later on the trail?!

Nicky’s cafe is such a brilliant place – so lovely to eat real food and drink tea from a proper mug 😀 I bought a vegan sausage roll and chips to eat there, and another without chips to carry with me all day for an easy campsite dinner. Also several bags of crisps and a mars bar. Happy days!!!

After a long break at Nicky’s I felt like I was chasing my tail all day but I tried not to worry about timing and accept that it would take as long as it took to get to my campsite. It turned into a 10 hour day but it also reminded me one of my favourite things about trail walking – all you have to think about is where you’re going, how to get there and where you’ll get food, drink & shelter, and nothing else matters. How lucky that we get to do this 💙

On to Ickornshaw tomorrow – haven’t checked the weather yet, I’ll save it for the morning.

Day 4 – Jack Bridge to Ickornshaw

Today’s haiku –

Wind & rain today
True Wuthering Heights weather
Apt for Kate Bush day! 💃🏻

Really enjoyed today – I love the open moorland sections with all the wind and withering, and there wasn’t much rain so that was a bonus.

Very cool to see two Cathy’s from Haworth walking up to Top Withens ❤️

Finally found some trail buddies today ☺️

On to Malham…

Day 5: Ickornshaw to Malham

This felt like a longer slog than I remembered & I bought too much food in the co-op so my pack was heavy for the last few miles!

Haiku –

Up Pinhaw Beacon
Over the hills to Gargrave
And on to Malham

Day 6: Malham to Ling Gill Bridge (wild camp)

The very best kind of hiking day – beautiful places & beautiful people all day long. Will add more detail when I’m not sat on a windy hill!

Haiku –

I wrote the first one whilst walking around Malham Tarn, wondering why it smelled funny!!

Walking, with wet socks
On the outside of my pack.
The air smells pungent!!

This one came later in the day!

Wow wow wow wow wow
Best day of hiking ever
Pen y Ghent conquered

Onwards to Thwaite!

Day 7: Ling Gill Bridge to Thwaite

Haiku –

Hawes, Hardraw & Thwaite
Great Shunner Fell after lunch
Eighteen miles today

This day is easily summarised – long steady climb before dropping down to Hawes followed by a long steady climb before dropping down to Thwaite – but that makes it sound much less interesting than it was.

The views of the surrounding hills were great – loved seeing Pen y Ghent on the horizon – surprised it was so far away given that I was there the day before!!

Great Shunner Fell is a big old lump of rock! Kudos to anyone here that went over before the flagstones were laid 🙌🏻 It’s the first wet bog I’ve seen since I started. It was also pretty cold at the top so I was glad to head down and enjoy the views of distant Thwaite bathed in sunshine. It is very pretty here – looking forward to walking through it when I get going this morning.

Planning another longish day today but I’m feeling tired so might shorten it – I’ll see how I go…

Day 8: Thwaite to Clove Lodge

Haiku –

Four low-flying jets
Walked up to the highest pub
Sleighthome Moor is dry!

I was late getting started today and the walk from Thwaite to Keld took much longer than expected but the views at either end were so good. Made quick progress up to Tan Hill & then decided I would push on to Clove Lodge instead of finding somewhere to stop sooner. Best decision ever!

Clove Lodge is such a gem and Claire could not be kinder. I’ll write a separate post later about some truly wonderful people I’ve met on this hike, but suffice it to say I am very grateful for a safe space to sleep & a well-stocked snack barn 🙏🏻

Excited to pass half way today – can’t believe how fast the time is going – don’t want it to stop.

Feeling very grateful to be walking in such dry conditions – Sleightholme Moor was easy walking today but I can see that is not always the case!

Also excited to see four jets screaming through the valley above Thwaite this morning – very low & very loud.

Day 9: Clove Lodge to Langdon Beck

I totally crashed today 😢 Lack of quality sleep finally caught up with me and I had a real down day, which is probably inevitable at some point?! I was due to camp in the hotel grounds but upgraded to a room! Arrived just before 7pm, showered & washed my clothes, and was asleep by 8pm! No dinner but I’ll make up for it at breakfast…

‘Highlights’ of the day –

1) a whole bottle of insect repellent spilling into a pocket of my pack 🙄 The smell was gross even after cleaning up the worst of it AND it didn’t keep the midges away at all 😂

2) there was a tuck shop on route that I was excited to reach – but it was empty! 😠 Who promises a hikers tuck shop and then lets it get empty?!?!

3) actual rain for the first time on the way into Middleton-in-Teesdale.

I must have looked like I needed support because someone in a group of walkers gave me a blessing, which was very kind. They also told me where I’d find chips which was much appreciated.

This afternoon was not my kind of walking & weirdly didn’t feel like the Pennine Way at all because it was more of a tourist trail. The waterfalls were pretty but I’d have liked them closer together with less river in between!!

So that’s everything about day 9 – summarised into a choice of haiku:

The how-I-felt version –

A blessing brought tears
Didn’t want to walk today
This is my down day

And the less emotional version –

An empty tuck shop
Two beautiful waterfalls
A long river walk

Tomorrow is my most anticipated section of the trail…hope I feel better than today so I can fully enjoy it🤞🏻

Onwards!

Day 10: Langdon Beck to Dufton

Haiku –

Ten hours sleep – pure bliss
High Cup Nick, a dream come true;
To Dufton to rest!

Wow – amazing how different I feel after sleeping for 10 hours, eating a cooked breakfast and four slices of toast and jam, and stopping every hour to drink some rehydration/energy salts.

Also I cheated by walking direct to Cow Green Reservoir by road – couldn’t face any more river walking!!

I have wanted to see High Cup Nick for years and he did not disappoint. I got really emotional thinking about how many people never get the chance to live out their dreams, and how grateful that I got to live out one of mine today.

Arrived in Dufton before 5pm, pitched up, helped another hiker who was feeling poorly, showered & headed to The Stag for the most incredible meal – I decided not to be vegetarian today – need protein!

Thank you all for support yesterday – I was feeling very broken and cannot believe how much better I feel today. If I sleep well tonight I’ll push on tomorrow; if not I’ll take a rest day…

Day 11: Dufton to Garrigill

Haiku –

All day ascending
Cross Fell wasn’t cross at all
Endless winding road

My (revised) plan today was to rest up in Dufton – cup of tea in the Post Box Pantry, Sunday roast in The Stag, an afternoon nap, a bit of journaling about my trip…it would have been so nice BUT then I saw the weather forecast for Cross Fell today 😀 Wind speed 3-7mph (maximum gusts 13mph!) and it was too enticing to get up and over while it was that good.

I am feeling truly blessed with the weather! If I’d known it would be this good I could have left two coats at home!!

So I had 6 hours going (mostly) uphill – loved the views (good to see Cow Green reservoir from yesterday) and nearly 4 hours coming back down – that last 3 of which were spent on the endless road…I have read other theories but I think it is called the Corpse Road because most people walking on this road die of boredom on the way to Garrigill!!!

Not only was the road long but the midges were persistent – midge net on for the first time in my life…

Onwards tomorrow!

Day 12: Garrigill to Greenriggs campsite

Haiku –

Stocked up in Alston
Slept at Slaggyford station!
Galloped to Greenriggs

A much needed shorter and easy day today, made even shorter and easier by my unplanned decision to walk on the South Tyne Trail from Alston to Slaggyford. It wasn’t very interesting but it was like sleep-walking – my body knew what to do but my brain didn’t have to be involved at all.

I was hoping for a cuppa at Slaggyford station but nothing was open. I sat on a bench, thinking about getting my stove out to make tea, but then realised I needed a snooze instead!! For 20 peaceful minutes I lay on the bench, shoes off, pack under my legs, chest pack under my head & it was bliss 😴

Revived after some food, I headed back to the actual PW and yomped to the campsite, meeting Kai along the way who decided to camp here too. Jill, the owner, is the nicest lady ever – made me a cup of tea on arrival and fetched me a chair. Shower was really hot. Beautiful campsite if anyone is looking in this area.

Day 13: Greenriggs Cottage to Winshields

Haiku –

Early rain soon stopped
Hadrian’s Wall was hilly
Twice Brewed for dinner

I thought I was going to lose my good weather charm this morning…woke to the sound of pouring rain but a quick check on the weather showed it would be gone by 9am so I hung out in my tent, ate breakfast & starting packing things away while I waited. By 8.45am it was gone and it stayed away all day!!!

Greenriggs Cottage campsite was such a gem – the owner made me a fantastic packed lunch and even brought a cup of tea over to my tent this morning!! Highly recommend.

Even though the rain had stopped, my feet got soaked in all the wet grass over Blenkinsopp Common but luckily there was no noticeable wet bog – second win of the day!

I have to admit I wasn’t looking forward to Hadrian’s Wall, having been told and read how busy it is. I thought it would feel like a tourist trail, so I took my time having lunch at Greenhead Tearooms before heading up to the wall. It totally surpassed all expectations!! Not busy, not touristy, just very impressive. In spite of having tired little legs, I even loved all the hills! I kept going to the trig pillar at Winshields Crag before dropping down to my campsite for the night.

What a gift of a day on the Way. So grateful to be doing this – can’t believe I only have 4 more days…

PS is it possible I could see the sea, looking west from Winshields Crag trig pillar???

Day 14: Winshields to Bellingham

Haiku –

Farewell to the wall
A bit squally at lunchtime!
Arrived Belling-jam

I was so sad the leave the wall today that I took no notice of the way marker & barrelled straight ahead down the obvious path 🤦🏻‍♀️ I realised when I reached the stony outcrop, turned right, navigated my way around two cows only to find they had left their babies hiding in a hollow on the path, so I had to give them a wide berth.

Hadrian’s Wall really stirred something in me – I’d never want to do the whole route but seeing the undulating line of it and all the crags, going into the distance is remarkable. Loved it!

Had some proper squally weather today – the big coat had to come out for the first time. I tucked myself into a sheepfold for lunch, half way across Haughton Common, to avoid the worst of the sideways rain for a while.

I was glad when I realised that Horneystead Pit Stop was getting near. Had a really lovely chat with Mr Horneystead who was there when I arrived. I took off my wet socks, made a cuppa & sat with my feet drying for a while. Bliss! Mr H suggested a different campsite to the one I planned to use tonight, so I took his advice and bought food from the co-op on the way. This vegetarian just wolfed down half a chicken!!! I’ll be running all the way to Byrness tomorrow! (spoiler alert – I didn’t actuallyrun!!

Day 15: Bellingham to (almost) Byrness

Haiku –

Quick shop at co-op
A moorland & forest day
Don’t want this to end

For the first time today I thought about this adventure being nearly over & it brought up lots of emotions, many of which I’m sure are familiar to others who have walked the PW too.

I’m really happy with how I’ve managed everything. I’m so proud of my little old legs for getting me here. I’m excited for the last two days (I’m splitting it so that I can savour every moment). I’m grateful for the support I’ve had on my JustGiving page raising money for Cancer Research UK in memory of a friend. I don’t want it to end. I can’t wait to get home and exfoliate my legs. I don’t want to go home at all. I’m grateful I have a home to go back to…

It’s a lot, isn’t it?!

I’ve also been thinking about how to describe the experience to people who may ask, and I’ve come to the conclusion that long distance hiking is a lot like life – good bits, ugly bits, laughter, tears, challenging stuff, fun times, days when you don’t want to get out bed, days that you feel invincible, times when you don’t know where you’re going, the joy of meeting people along the way – and all of it made possible by putting one foot in front of the other, over & over again.

How lucky I feel to have had the luxury of time to take this journey. I will try to remember that when I feel sad that it’s over!

But it’s not over yet!!

Today was my speediest walking so far. Walked into my campsite (just short of Byrness) at 16.08 having set off at a slightly tardy 09.30! I think the forest trail had me walking quicker than usual – my feet definitely feel like that’s what happened anyway. Today was really a day of two parts – lovely moorland, followed by the hideous climb up to the forest path 😳 and the forest itself. Wet vegetation for the last stretch was an added bonus!!

I did gain some trail buddies today though ☺️ & we’ll all be finishing on Saturday so that’s really cool…

Onwards!

Day 16: Byrness to somewhere in the hills!

Haiku –

Climb up Byrness Hill
Amazing day in the hills
Find somewhere to sleep

Wow! What a day!! I love being in the hills and today delivered plenty of them! The initial climb was tough near the top but once you’re in the sky it’s soon forgotten.

This was my favourite kind of hiking – up high all day, big views, rolling landscape, a few cairns & trig pillars & the silly joy of crossing the border via a gate!

Just before Chew Green I was thinking that it felt like I was inside the landscape, and that it would be impossible to see this area without walking into it…and then I saw the road & noticed a parking area on the map 😂 But aside from that, it feels like such a special place, which is earned by the journey taken to get there.

For anyone behind me, there was a trickle of water at Richard’s cleugh – bit of a balancing act but I collected a litre on my way through. I filtered, micropur-ed and boiled it so hopefully I’ll live to tell the tale…

So there’s no sadness today – just real joy about a fantastic day. My feet are sore now – no blisters but they feel like they’ve worked hard these past few days! It’s going to be a cold night up here but I’m snuggled up in my sleeping bag and hopefully the sound of the wind will lull me to sleep.

One more day!

Day 17: somewhere in the hills to Kirk Yetholm

Haiku –

Woke up in the hills
Walked the Cheviot & Schil
Then a long descent

Wow! The final section is so lovely – hard walking in places but stunning rolling hills ❤️ I was amazed to see the sea from the Cheviot turn off! Didn’t expect that at all. The final way marker ‘KY 2 miles’ nearly broke me – thought I was nearer! And the uphill road at the end!!!

Reached the end without any emotional over-spill, then sat in the hotel with a pot of tea and couldn’t stop the tears!! I gave the beer away to a group in the bar & a lady came over to thank me. She knew I’d completed the PW but didn’t realise it had just happened and couldn’t understand why I was emotional. Then she saw the certificate and asked why I had it…’I just finished the Pennine Way!’ – ‘oh, like JUST finished?’ #doh

While I was walking, I carried a heart-shaped pebble from my nearest beach in East Sussex, and today I left it on an outside windowsill at the Border Hotel. A token for my grand-daughters (from whom I am sadly estranged), but who I carry with me wherever I go…

Summary haiku:

Thank you Pennine Way
The people, the path, the views.
What an adventure!

A final haiku:

Waiting for my train
Heading home with heavy heart
Sad to leave the trail

What a beautiful journey this has been. I’m sure it won’t be my last…

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Guided walks

My guided walks are kept to fairly small groups so you’ll have chance to enjoy the walk in a relaxed and friendly setting. I try to share gems of local history & folklore along with flora and fauna knowledge, so that we feel a connection to the spaces we are walking through. We take time to stop and stare and enjoy the views, but you’ll also feel like you’ve moved your body!

(Winter sunshine is the best!! It’s such a great time of year to get outside and soak up the light – a perfect way to balance out the shorter days and tendency to spend more time indoors)

Will I be able to keep up?

Walking with a group may seem slightly daunting at first – will you be able to keep up? will you manage the distance? what will you do if you need a wee?! The answer to the first two questions is ‘yes’ and the answer to the third one is ‘you’ll find somewhere out of sight to have a wild wee & it will be much easier than you think!’

In my experience of walking in & leading groups, there will always be people who walk at slightly different paces, and that is fine. If you’re a bit of a ‘marcher’ you can go slightly ahead of the group, and I will stay in the middle, so no-one will ever be left behind or feel pressured to walk too fast for them. I guarantee that you’ll meet some amazing, kind & supportive people who will make you feel welcome.

The best way to not feel out of your depth is to read the walk information before you book (checking details of distance, pace and time), and let me know if you have any questions or concerns. Start with shorter distances & easier (flatter!) landscapes if you are not sure how your feet/legs will cope. Wear comfortable footwear and clothing, with enough layers to keep you warm – but not too warm! Bring food, snacks & water, according to the time of day that you’re walking. Maybe bring a friend too?

Why walk with a group?

Walking with a group is great if you feel nervous about venturing out alone and it is a fantastic way to explore new areas. Possibly the biggest advantage of joining a guided walk is that someone has done the planning and dealt with the logistics for you (as well as carrying emergency kit and holding a suitable qualification & insurance to keep you safe).

I think the most important thing is to simply start somewhere. Book a walk & enjoy your time outdoors. You won’t regret it!

Find a guided walk:

You can now find details for all my upcoming walks on one page – here

Check back regularly to see new walks as they are posted, usually 4-6 weeks in advance.

See you on the trail!

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Guided walks – November & December 2025

(The team from the Greater London Marriott Business Council on a recent night-hike in London)

Over the past few weeks I have been involved in leading some great walks, working as a freelancer for two different organisations, and supporting another walk leader as a volunteer back-marker. The walks have all been very different, but the people involved have been fantastic and helped to make the walks really enjoyable. I can’t wait to do more walking work, including some of my own guided walk routes!

Walking with a group may seem slightly daunting at first – will you be able to keep up? will you manage the distance? what will you do if you need a wee?! The answer to the first two questions is ‘yes’ and the answer to the third one is ‘you’ll find somewhere out of sight to have a wild wee & it will be much easier than you think!’

In my experience of walking in & leading groups, there will always be people who walk at slightly different paces, but the group goal is to walk together, so no-one will ever be left behind or feel pressured to walk too fast for them. I guarantee that you’ll meet some amazing, kind & supportive people who will make you feel welcome. And remember that they were new to it once too, so they likely know how you feel.

The best way to not feel out of your depth is to read the walk information before you book (checking details of distance, pace and time), and contact the walk leader if you have any questions or concerns. Start with shorter distances & easier (flatter!) landscapes if you are not sure how your feet/legs will cope. Wear comfortable footwear and clothing, with enough layers to keep you warm – but not too warm! Bring food, snacks & water, according to the time of day that you’re walking. Maybe bring a friend too?

Of course the advantage of joining a guided walk is that someone has done the planning and dealt with the logistics for you. Walking with a group is great if you feel nervous about venturing out alone and it is a fantastic way to explore new areas. And on top of all that, the walk leader is (hopefully) qualified, insured and first aid trained, as well as knowledgeable about the area you will be walking in, so you will be in safe hands.

I think the most important thing, especially at this time of year when daylight hours are shortening day-by-day, is to simply start somewhere. Book a walk & enjoy your time outdoors. You won’t regret it!

Up-coming walks for the rest of 2025:

Click on the links below for further details and booking information for each walk.

  • Saturday 26th October – Ivinghoe Beacon & the Ridgeway with Adventure Women UK (details here) – currently fully booked but there’s an option to join a waiting list
  • Saturday 8th November – Beachy Head circular – 8 miles in the South Downs National Park, returning along a section of the stunning Seven Sisters cliffs (details here)
  • Saturday 15th November – Penshurst Place & Chiddingstone with Adventure Women UK(details here)
  • Wednesday 26th November – Women’s Wellbeing Walk in and around Wye taking in the Wye Crown and the Devil’s Kneading Trough – 5 miles (details here)
  • Saturday 6th December – Wye to Chilham – 8(ish) miles on possibly the best stretch of the whole North Downs Way (details here)
  • Wednesday 17th December – Women’s Wellbeing Walk from Kilndown to Scotney Castle approx 4 miles with a café stop halfway – a perfect way to gift yourself some time away from all the festive planning (details here)

See you on the trail!

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Up-coming guided walks

path leading through the forest

On my recent holiday in North Wales, I was reminded how joyful it is to walk in company. I often walk alone, and really like to do that too, but walking with others adds something to the experience. A shared joy of being in nature? The shared achievement of a hill climbed or a rain-shower dodged? A helping hand (given or received) when needed. Shared cake or fruit pastilles? It all adds a sense of connection to others, sometimes lacking in the lives we lead.

Walk Wild Wellbeing

Last Sunday I joined Michael (Walk Wild Wellbeing), who is a fellow North Down’s Way Ambassador, with a view to making some connections & spending time with others. It was a really lovely experience, not walking anywhere particularly note-worthy, but enjoying Michael’s folklore tales, flora and fauna knowledge, some mindful moments in nature & some great company.

He mentioned that he was leading a walk in & around Canterbury and was looking for a back-marker, so I have happily volunteered myself for that role and can’t wait to walk with him again. The walk is part of the YHA festival of walking and free to join (book here). It is a family friendly and leisurely-paced walk, starting and ending at Canterbury Youth Hostel, where refreshments will be available on our return. The walk will meander its way through woodlands, orchards, and wild and beautiful Kent countryside, walking via a footpath that intersects a zoo, where it’s very common to be able to view African Elephants and other animals before returning via a section of the North Downs Way.

Hope you can join Michael (& me) for this walk.

Adventure Women UK

In the coming months, I am excited to be leading some walks for Erika who runs Adventure Women UK and the first ones are in a few weeks’ time! All the walks are women-only, very friendly, non-competitive, great fun and often accessible by public transport for a car-free day.

You can find details of all the AW walks & adventures here.

I will be leading this one & this one in September, and this one in October. I would love to have your company!

High Weald walking festival

I am not involved in this as a walk leader, but I will be joining one or two of the walks being offered as part of the High Weald walking festival this year – 13th-21st September.

All the walks are free to join, booking advisable, and varying in length from 1-2 miles to full day walks.

You can find the programme and all the walk details here where you will also find some self-guided walk routes in case you fancy exploring at a later date.

How lucky are we to have so many autumn walking opportunities to enjoy?

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Adventures in North Wales 2025

There were so many heart-full moments on this trip but this one was right up there with the best – arriving just as the sun rose, an unplanned walk up to the halfway point of Pen Yr Ole Wen (just because the path looked so inviting), a view of Tryfan (which has totally stolen a piece of my heart!), and the most glorious walk ahead of me, around Llyn Ogwen and Llyn Idwal. Days do not come much better than this!!

I was really anxious about this trip. After a challenging year my confidence was low and I had no idea where I really wanted to be, but I set off with all the maps (literally everywhere from North Wales, Mid-Wales, the Brecons, the Wales coast path, the Lake District…) but it turns out I landed right where I was meant to be! I had only booked a campsite for the first week, and even though I did move to another site, I only moved about 3 miles down the road so I think I have found my place!

I had a goal to walk lots of mountains so that I could log them for a Mountain Leader training course at a later date, but after a few days I realised that I’m much happier in the upland & moorland areas around the mountains, and so the goal shifted, and I just followed my heart and had some fun. Meeting up with a couple of people I knew made it extra special and it reminded me that it’s good to not always walk alone #whoknew?!

I could write the longest post about how much I loved this time, but in the interests of not being too much of a holiday bore, I’ll narrow it down to a few highlights:

  • this island church (above) near Aberffraw was a pure delight – cut off by the tide, it is only accessible at certain times. I arrived just as the tide was ebbing and had the place to myself for a good 15 minutes – the joy of sitting there, buffeted by the wind & warmed by the sun, looking out to the mountains of Snowdonia and the coast of the Llyn Peninsula, will stay with me for a very long time – I felt like I had died and gone to heaven!
  • a friend suggested a route for me, which I would never have been able to do were it not for the fact that he told me I would be able to, and luckily I believed him because it took me to the very limit of my scrambling skills and severely tested my head for heights, but it was the MOST magnificent hike I have ever done – I’m still smiling at the memory of it! The route started by Llyn Ogwen, went up to Llyn Bochlwyd, and all the way around Tryfan so I got to see that stunning lump of rock from every angle. I very nearly went up to the summit but decided that the earlier scramble was enough excitement for one day!
  • a visit to Llanddwyn gave me an unusually flat walking day, but the views and the beauty of the place more than made up for the lack of mountains. This is another headland which is cut off by the tide, and there’s something about that (perhaps the fact that I have always dreamed of living on a tiny remote island?!) which stirs my soul. Such a gem of a place, also with amazing views of the mountains and coastline.
  • there was a walk I really wanted to do having visited nearby twice before, but it was an hour away from me and I wasn’t sure I could do it alone, so it was pure coincidence that a friend was leading a walk there during my stay, and invited me along! The three Yr Eifl peaks include an incredible Iron Age hillfort, Tre’r Ceiri, and it was great to go up and see it. The walking was tough, on uneven shale and boulders, but it was such a good adventure with views forever!
  • for my last big hike, I met a friend in Rowen & we headed up to the top of Tal Y Fan, an unexpectedly beautiful, rugged but very accessible mountain. From there we walked to the stone circles above Penmaenmawr, and picked up the North Wales Pilgrims Way to visit St Celynnin’s old church at Llangelynnin, and headed back to Rowen for hugs goodbye. Such a beautiful day.

North Wales is my place. I love the way that the mountains wrap you up & embrace you from the moment you arrive. I love the huge views. I love sitting by an island church looking across the sea to a mountain I summited a few days ago. I love the people. I love the sound of the Welsh language, even though I don’t speak it. I love the challenge of pronouncing place names. I love the weather – apparently it rains sometimes but I haven’t seen much evidence of that!! I love the vibrancy of the place. It feels like home…

A few take-aways from time away:

  • watch less TV – I didn’t miss it at all while I was away, and really enjoyed reading instead
  • I can do scary things
  • time with people is important – do more of that!
  • having no plan is sometimes the best plan
  • I don’t need product in my hair – I’m loving the feral approach much more!
  • it’s good to have a washing machine & dishwasher again…
  • walking is SO good – I averaged nearly 10 miles a day (not intentionally) and feel stronger and fitter, with a bit less belly fat as a bonus
  • it’s okay to eat chicken or turkey sometimes – can’t quite call myself a vegetarian any more but who needs labels anyway?!
  • spend more time sitting still & being – less doing
  • Mr Kipling’s Bakewell tarts are an excellent walking snack! On my first day, slogging up Moel Siabod, I saw someone pull out a whole box of Mr K’s apple pies and thought how weird it was…four hours later when I reached the summit I would have given my right kidney for an apple pie or six!!! I bought a box of Bakewell tarts the next day and haven’t looked back since…
  • even when a trig point is swarming with flying ants (top right above), you still have to run up and tap it, or it doesn’t count!

And then I drove home…

It always takes a few days to settle after I’ve been camping – I feel shut-in by the walls and doors – so when I got home, I unloaded the van, loaded the washing machine, had a cup of tea, and headed straight out to the beach!! As luck would have it, a friend from South Wales was visiting Rye, and we met up for a brief but joyful walk on the pebbles, which was the perfect way to land back.

And now I’m ready to get back to work next week, feeling rested and refreshed, energised & looking forward to new things on the horizon.

It’s odd to think that three weeks ago I wasn’t sure if I even wanted to go away, and yet here I am refuelled by some wonderful adventures & I think that’s the ultimate goal of taking some time away…