South Downs Way – notes from day 3

(East Meon to Cocking)

I was definitely ready for my bed last night after 21 miles with my boots on. I could have done without the 4 & a half mile round trip to the pub for dinner, but the food was great, the WiFi & phone charging were useful and walking without a backpack was quite nice! And I saw a deer on the way home (it’s not in the photo – I just wanted to share the golden light with you)

Woke up to the sound of the dawn chorus at 4.30am then managed to doze a bit longer until the sounds of the sparrows in the roof space became too loud to ignore. I went to sleep as the sun was setting so I guess it’s ok to wake as it rises – although a later start would have been very nice.

Since it’s going to be another hot day an early start on the road might not be a bad thing, but my planned breakfast stop (an hour from here) doesn’t open until 10am. By 7.30am I’m ready to go but hanging back a little longer just to let the air warm up a bit and because my legs aren’t quite ready to start walking again yet. Was just thinking what I’d trade for a cup of hot water right now!! 

Dolly the shepherd’s hut has been very comfortable – I think this might turn out to be my favourite sleep of the whole week. Tonight is my only b&b and then I’m staying in hostels all the way home. 

South Downs Way mileage post

Set off at 8am so now I’m waiting at the Queen Elizabeth Country Park for the cafe to open – I really need a mug of green tea and some non-snack-bar breakfast. Had a weird moment with vertigo/jelly legs coming down Butser Hill – it wasn’t a very steep descent but there were signs of cows which made me extra nervous. Met a lovely old man on the way down and chatting with him helped me to settle into my legs again.

I have driven along that stretch of the A3 many times but today was my first time seeing it from above and walking underneath it. Lots of memories of Portsmouth University years today… 

Long morning, not many views but beech trees everywhere – plenty of shade but the air feels steamy & stifling. I’m definitely feeling the effects of yesterday’s miles but my PacerPoles have been a great help in getting me up & down some very steep inclines! Every time I use them I remember to ‘walk tall’ and seeing these tress today reminded me to do the same.

As I left the QE Country Park behind me, I saw this fabulous honesty table by someone’s house – what a thoughtful thing to do:

Honesty table along the South Downs Way
flapjack, water & glasses, dog biscuits & a dog bowl and a jar of wild flowers

I took a turn off route for lunch in South Harting. It was a memorable meal, not because it was nice but because it has been repeating on me ever since… ‘vegetarian’ seems to be a slightly alien concept hereabouts – I’m craving simple food, vegetables, fruit and cheese. 

After lunch I walked around and then up the second Beacon Hill on the SDW – and when I got to the top I burst into tears! Not sure if it was the sheer exertion of the climb, the after effects of lunch or the breathtaking views to the Solent but either way I decided it was time to break open the Kendal mint cake to calm my soul and soothe my guts. Seems to have worked but I need to get moving soon – the flies are buzzing around suggesting that perhaps I need a shower?!?! 

South Downs Way trig point

Today was a really long one. The afternoon miles went on and on and on – rough ground, loose flint and chalk, short sharp climbs, long steady climbs, steamy heat and my first time running very low on water. The guide book suggested a distance of 13.5 miles on this stretch but I finished on 18.6 miles! I went off piste for lunch, had an initial climb to re-join the route this morning and made a few wrong turns, but there’s no way they added up to 3 extra miles so I’m not sure where the other 2 came from??! 

On the South Downs Way near Cocking

I trudged along dreaming that there would be a bath at my b&b, and THERE WAS. I don’t think I have ever been so happy to see a bath in all my life. Now I’m clean and well fed the day doesn’t seem so bad after all so I might carry on a bit further tomorrow Jx 

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